“We’re not masters of anything. We make wort, we don’t make beer. That’s very different; we’ve relinquished control for the most part. The one thing we do control is what goes into the barrel, and what gets blended from the barrel. But even after that, because it’s naturally reconditioned in the keg and bottle, you have zero control.” Pauses. “I didn’t have any gray hairs when I started.”
“Our biggest challenge as a natural, wild brewer is to restrain acidity.
It’s going to be there, and you need some for the complexity, but it
needs to be in balance. It’s like the hops arms race—we are in that
phase. The demand for sour beer makes people think sour is good. Like
hops are good; bitterness is good. But that shouldn’t be the defining
feature of a beer. It should be an element that is essential to produce
complexity—not the element defining the beer.”