Mini-Vertical: Abyss 2007 and 2009

Last night a friend brought over a bottle of this year's vintage of the Abyss, and I grabbed a bottle of the '07 for a side-by-side. Mainly we were just shooting the breeze, but I have found that adding vintage specialty beers has its conversational virtues.

Beer raters on BeerAdvocate currently consider this to be the third best beer on the planet, edged marginally by Westvleteren 12 and Pliny the Younger. (Pliny the Elder, a superior beer, trails by just a hair more and is in fifth--but I digress.) It is a beer that always creates a furor at release, and I am fairly certain that you could trade older bottles of the Abyss for an older Camry on the gray market.

All of which leaves me somewhat ambivalent: I am not an Abyss-head. I tried the first vintage green and found it undrinkably intense. The black malts were grinding in their bitterness and the overall presentation was just too rich. I've encountered some triple-chocolate cakes of a similar ilk--too much of a good thing. No worries, though--I put the bottles in the cellar and figured I'd wait it out. Indeed, on election night I revisited the '06 and with two years it had stewed quite a bit. Still intense, but the edges had mellowed and it came together. At Christmas we tried another bottle of the '06 (just one left!) and again, nice.

So I wasn't surprised to find the '07 in fine form. After a couple years, the beer takes on just a plummy hint of oxidation (mainly an aromatic), and all the violence of the malts, bourbon, licorice have taken a step back, put down their weapons. They blend much more gracefully, and I found a lush dark chocolate character there, just on the good side of bitter.

What really shocked me was the '09. It was far more drinkable than the '06--the last green Abyss I tried. The body is lighter, and a bright floral note somehow survived the process. You find it both in the nose and on the palate, unsullied by the motor-oil it inhabits. It's really a revelation, bringing out a kind of lavender flavor from the dark malts. Readily quaffable and not particularly agressive--at least by comparison. It's odd; I'm not sure I would even recommend aging this one (though of course I will). That fresh, delicate note won't survive bottle aging, and it's really something to behold.

Deschutes made quite a bit more Abyss this year and you can still find it on shelves. You might appreciate grabbing a bottle and sampling it green.

Celebrating with Abyss

Watching the returns and things are looking good enough that we've gotten into the 2007 Abyss. I found it too green when it was released, and this is the first bottle I've pulled out that was aged. Wow! The flavors have really come together and it is dense and chocolatey. Holy moly...

Abyss Available Now!

So here's the skinny. Belmont Station got in 25 cases of Abyss this morning, but are already down five or so (12:41 pm). So there are 240 bottles left as I write this, and I wouldn't expect them to last through the weekend, or, honestly, through closing tomorrow. I'll call around and see where else they may have landed.

Go forth, and secure your three bottles!

[Update (12:45 pm): John's Market got some in as well, though they refused to divulge how much. The guy I spoke to speculated that it was enough to last until I got off work, if that tells you anything. They're at: 3535 Multinomah Blvd., Portland. (503) 244-2617.

Woodstock Wine and Deli (12:48 pm): no dice. They got some in, but it was instantly snapped up/spoken for.

New Seasons (1:53 pm): I have been in email contact with New Season's beer person--yes, such a person does indeed exist, and yes, she's a woman--who was promised delivery at their nine Portland stores. She's checking to see if the deliveries are in.

Later (3:27 pm). This just in from New Seasons: "It sounds as though all of our stores got their Abyss except our Concordia location. Some stores have some set aside for their loyal customers who’ve called in. We’re expecting it to be all gone by gametime Sunday."]

A Second Batch of Abyss?

At the risk of diminishing my chance to get a bottle of this year's Abyss, I report the news from Belmont Station reluctantly:

Rumors have been swirling for a few days now about a second wave of Abyss arriving in Portland this week, and I can confirm that there are a couple hundred more cases dropping tomorrow and Friday. As far as I know, every place that received some of the first wave should get another small allotment, and a few places that got screwed the first time will be getting a some as well.

We won't be getting anywhere near the amount we received on the first batch, so in order to spread the joy a bit we're going to limit people to 3 bottles per person (per day) for at least the first week.

I just called, and tomorrow's the day. I'll update you if/when they arrive (like about five minutes after I have my three bottles in hand). I'll check around and see where else the bottles might be landing...

The Abyss - Deschutes

When I saw John Foyston's article about Deschute's new "brewmaster's reserve" beer, I instantly went out and bought it. Deschutes almost never brews bad beer, and this one hit my stylistic sweet spot:

The Abyss is the second of the Deschutes Brewery's Reserve Series launched last year with oak-aged Mirror Mirror, which was based on a double Mirror Pond Ale. The Abyss is an imperial stout -- 11 percent alcohol -- aged in French oak and bourbon casks.

Well, I cracked a bottle last night, and I am sorry to report that it's a little green. "Little" as in Kansas has a little corn.

It may be that in a year the flavors will ultimately coalesce, but for now, it's an overly strong, harsh beer. Unlike the Storm King I reviewed last week, The Abyss is unpleasantly bitter and aggressive. Dark malts are alternately burnt and tannic, overwhelming the creamy body and subtler notes of bourbon and oak. Imagine unsweetened chocolate.

I will stow my bottles in the basement and let them age at least five years. It's not a sure bet, but my guess is that these flavors will change and produce an exceptional beer. If you are/were lucky enough to score a bottle, cellar it and check back in 2011.

Statistics
All the brewery tells us is the alcohol percentage and the method of aging. Everything else is up to your palate.

Available: Bottles: Belmont Station, Liquid Solutions, selected New Seasons. On tap: Concordia Ale House, Horse Brass, Oaks Bottom, the Mash Tun.

Rating
Average