If I wanted water, I would have asked for water.


Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Stumptown Tart - Review

Let us say here at the front that BridgePort is really workin it. A couple of years ago they came out with Supris, last year they put out Hop Harvest, and now Stumptown. Clearly a brewery that likes to experiment and take chances. I particularly appreciate the journey into Belgian-style ales, an exploration far too few breweries have taken. And Supris was a a good effort and an authentic beer.

(You sense a "but" here, don't you? Read on.)

Tasting Notes
Nowhere does Stumptown Tart advertise itself as a lambic-style ale. But how are we to conclude anything but that this was the approximation of the latest "Belgian style ale" in the brewery's Big Brews line? It contains a nod to Dan Carey's famous Raspberry Tart, a beer Carey (whom BridgePort consulted) describes as a "framboise"--a traditional style of fruit lambic.

BridgePort doesn't say how they managed the sour. In traditional Belgian versions, the sour comes from wild yeasts that float through the Zenne Valley. The quality of the sour may range from dry and puckery to fertile and almost compost-y. The addition of fruit gives the beer added depth, but hardly any sweetness. The fruit becomes an essence, turning the lambic into something very similar to a dry wine.

BridgePort's version, however, has a quality unlike any lambic I've ever tasted. Let's start with the positive--the aroma and appearance of the beer beguiled. Marionberry essence rises off the glass like fresh fruit. There's a sour note there, too, and it seems very lambic-like. My two pours produced little in the way of a head, but the beer looked like a nice fruit lambic--hazy and berry purple.

It's the palate that's strange. The sourness is wrong. I'd describe it as inorganic, like a chemical creation, rather than the interplay of yeast and sugars. Aging it in oak probably didn't help matters; although the berries add some softness and flavor, it finishes with a long, puckery dryness. I had Sally try it, and she didn't like the sour note, either (though, caveat emptor, she likes sour beers less than I do). Although I admired the berries in the beer, and liked the idea, whatever it was the brewery used to sour Stumptown Tart didn't work.

I have a couple more bottles in the cellar, so I'll see if anything changes. For now, I hate to say that I can't recommend it.

Rating: D

[Update. It did change--and for the better. See this later review from February '09.]

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

The wife and I tried a bottle the other night and I was forced to conclude that it was much closer to a McMenamin's Ruby than a Lindeman's Framboise.

The Mrs. enjoyed it though.

Jason

iggir said...

you softened your review pal...your initial critique was a bit harsher if i recall.

Jeff Alworth said...

Softened? I gave it a D, which according to my own ratings, means "Off-flavors mar the recipe." As it stands, I worry that I'll be labeled persona non grata on NW Marshall St.

dr wort said...

persona non grata??!!

What's more valuable?

An honest review which will help guide and better the brewers hand...

or

Saving face and losing some perks for being honest...

You know my mantra, 'The people have a right to the truth.' ;-}

I think your review was a fine balance of honesty (even if it was restrained), brewing information and face saving gratuity to Bridgeport.

The truth doesn't always have to be harsh..... Wait! Did I say that??

;-}

Anonymous said...

cool blog ;)
my blog
welcome ;)

Anonymous said...

I wonder, could the sour be entirely from the marionberries? They are pretty tart to begin with, and would be even more so once their sugars fermented out.

I guess its a moot point as I agree with Jeff's review. What a muddled palate. I didn't find it to be actively offensive; I finished the bottle, but I'm sure glad I only bought the one, even at the surprisingly low price. The bourbon barrel Old Knucklehead, however, at the same low price, is relatively enjoyable.

Post a Comment

NOTE: Blogspot has been eating some comments, and there doesn't seem to be anything I can do about it. IF your comment doesn't appear, it's not you, it's not me, it's the genuiuses at Google. Sorry--