Full Sail Nugget Special Red and Top Sail Imperial Porter

Full Sail has a pretty low-profile series, available only in 22 once bottles, called Brewmaster's Reserve. It is the yang to their "Livin' the Dream" series yang. Whereas that line is a mainstream offering to a large audience, Brewmaster's Reserve is for beer geeks. Available now are two beers I tried over the weekend--Nugget Red and Top Sail Porter.

In a moment, I'll get to the reviews, but first a mention about reviewer objectivity, a subject brought into sharp relief by these contrasting beers. I try to be objective. Over the years of formal and informal tasting, I've developed an appreciation for every style of beer (leaving aside the commercial inventions of light beer, dry beer, etc). I understand the intention, history, and craft behind the styles. But that doesn't mean I love them equally. I favor beers that are hoppy or black (or both), beers made with ale yeast, and anything made in Belgium. German beers are harder for me to love. Among ales, two beers could scarcely be found that would test my prejudices. Based on the results of my tasting, I'm suspicious of bias. You'll have to be the judge.

Top Sail Imperial Porter
Top Sail has been around as a seasonal for at least a decade. And, although the description "imperial porter" is obscure and unilluminating, it has always been used to describe the beer. Porters are generally lighter beers, even "robust porters," which generally top out at 6% abv. When you start getting into high-alcohol, densely black ales, you tend to think you've entered stout country. (The name "stout," as it happens, comes from the development of stronger porters, know originally as "stout porters.") So wouldn't an "imperial porter" suggest a stout? You'd think, but perhaps the brewery was just trying to be enigmatic. (Of course, there are baltic porters, which are strong . . . but the style horse is dead, so I'll quit beating it.) I'd call it a pretty standard Oregon Stout--something Obsidian drinkers would instantly recognize.

But never mind the name, what about the flavor? For any beer to survive a decade or more, you figure it has to be pretty tasty. With Top Sail, you figure right. It is an absolutely gorgeous beer, pouring out with velvety viscosity, a dense chocolate shake head piling up (and lasting pretty well, despite the high alcohol content). It has a mild, Tootsie Roll aroma; I could detect no hops. The flavor is a wonderful blending of intense, dark-chocolate bitterness, with notes of roasted coffee, and fruit-sweet notes that fall halfway between plum and blackberry. The sweet notes are unusually fruity, but you have to turn your attention to them; otherwise, the creamy, slightly chalky bitterness carries you away.

Available Stats
Alcohol by volume: 7.5%
Bitterness Units: 60
Available: March and April, in 22 oz bottles only

Rating: B+


Nugget Special Red
The style of red ale seems to be emerging, and a number of my favorite breweries make one--Roots and Laurelwood are two that spring to mind. Last year, Widmer made one for their Spring seasonal. It seems to be characterized by mid-to-high strength, hop bitterness, and a thin body (and, of course, color). "Red ale" isn't a traditional style (I discussed that in the Widmer review, linked above), but it could emerge as a new one--and one with more distinctiveness than the strong versions of beers that get affixed with "imperial" or "double." Like Top Sail, for example. Whether red ale emerges as a recognized style or not, I have to say I'm biased against it.

In Nugget's case, there's less hopping than I've found in others, but the other characteristics are here: the thin middle, the candyish, sweet malt offset by (what I assume is) crystal malt tannins. It has a hollow center and a bitter edge--a classic red! I suspect it will fail to impress more for its lack of bitterness than the reasons I dislike it, but throw that in as a demerit, too. It's not a terrible beer, and I drank my 22 ounces in mild pleasure. Still, if I were in a pub with only two taps of Oregon craft beer pouring, the great likelihood is that I'd chose the other one. Nugget doesn't hit my sweet spot.

Available Stats
Alcohol by volume: 6.5%
Bitterness Units: 45
Available: March to June, in 22 oz bottles only

Rating: C+

New Ratings!

I have decided to abandon my old rating system. Although I maintain the philosophical underpinning was sound, as a method of communication, it is perhaps inadequate. While I know what I mean when I say "average" or "excellent," apparently it's not a universal nomanclature. So instead I'm moving to the classic school-based, letter-grading system.

• A ___ World class; a superlative example of the style or an exceptionally original beer.
  
• B+ to A- __Technically flawless, just short of the kind of character that distinguishes it as as the best in its style or as a truly original beer.
  
• C+ to B __A well-made beer that is a fairly common example of its style or a near miss on originality.
  
• D+ to C __Nothing stands out; beer doesn't have off-flavors but fails to impress.
• D- to D __Off-flavors mar the recipe.
• F ___ Off-flavors so profound the beer is undrinkable

This gives me a little more leeway to distinguish within broad categories, and to distinguish the transcendentally sublime (A) from the merely extraordinary (A-).

[Note: This post has been updated to correct numerous embarrassing errors. See comments for further analysis and documentation of my crimes and misdemeanors.]

Rock Bottom's Brewer is ... Cool

When I wrote about beer professionally, there were two breweries with whom I had a rocky relationship. Widmer, which in the late 90s was suffering through a post-Hefeweizen hangover and making a lot of so-so beer, didn't groove to my tepid praise. And Rock Bottom, which made almost exclusively very bland chain beer, got no mention at all. The only brewery. (I followed that advice Moms are supposed to give: "If you ain't got nothin nice to say....")

Well, in case you're still living in the 90s, things have changed. Rock Bottom produces some of the better beer in Portland, and has ever since Van Havig arrived in 2000. He's the new president of the Oregon Brewers Guild, and the Belmont Station Beer Forum has a wonderful interview with him. It's long, but actually one of the finest interviews I've read. It ranged from his background in Minnesota and Maryland to the Guild to the beer tax (cause I know you want more on that subject) and Rock Bottom and more. Wonderful behind-the-scenes stuff and remarkably candid. Listen to him talk about how it feels to have his name on the growlers they sell at the brewpub:

It’s all embarrassing corporate crap to tell you the truth. Honestly, that’s all corporate mandated promotional BS. But I would say that it makes me feel good that the staff here is proud of the beer here.

Go read the interview. You'll like it. Seriously.

A Very Thin Thread to the Topic of Beer

In 1888, Henry Weinhard offered to pump beer from his brewery via Portland's fire hoses through the pipes of the Skidmore Fountain for the fountain's grand opening. Weinhard's generous offer was vetoed by nervous civic leaders, who feared that residents would help themselves to the beer before it reached the fountain by poking holes in the city's valuable fire hoses. [Source]

Public art from Southeast Pine recalling one of those early horses:

Happy Friday, y'all.

More on the Beer Tax

[I posted at BlueOregon about this, perhaps more coherently. I'm crossposting it here.]

I'm a good liberal. As Lars will tell you, that means I think taxes are a wonderful way to ensure things like health care, higher ed, and social services are available to those who need them. But what to do when the tax being discussed--as it is today at 1pm in Salem--is a tax on beer? (Yeah, yeah, I know from prior posts that some of you do not share my love of our local delicacy; no worries, you'll come around eventually.)

The beer industry in Oregon is one of the nation's most robust, employing 26,000 people and contributing something on the order of $2.2 billion to the state's economy. There are roughly 80 brewers across the state, and they brewed 25 million gallons of beer in 2006. Oregon produces the second-most hops in the country, and the ninth-most barley. Beer is a big deal here.

The rub is that Oregon brewers pay among the lowest excise taxes in the country, and the rate hasn't gone up since 1976. And while Oregon's breweries produce a lot, it's still just a fraction of the beer consumed in the state--the majority still drink Pabst and Bud. So these low taxes are being extended predominantly to vast industrial breweries in St. Louis and Milwaukee.

To Democrats, raising the beer tax seems like an obvious way to boost revenue. They have four versions of bills that would raise beer taxes anywhere from 375% to 1,235%, the funds from which would go to (variously) state troopers, mental health, and drug addiction services. In the most extreme version, which raises the tax from $2.60 a barrel (31 gallons) to $32 a barrel, an exemption is made for companies that sell less than 125,000 barrels in Oregon. That would currently exempt all Oregon breweries, though the larger ones might produce that much in a decade, if current growth rates continue.

So, the question is: will raising the beer tax hurt local breweries, or is it reasonable for them to chip in their fair share? It may be a losing battle here on BlueOregon, but there are a couple reasons I'm not super hot on any of these proposals.

1. Fairness. All the taxes being considered are excise taxes and must be paid by the producer. But, when our home-grown Oregon brewers whip up a barrel of beer, a lot of people make money on it. The brewers sell it to distributors, and the distributors turn around and sell it to retailers. Of the $4 you pony up for an IPA at a pub, as little as 80 cents goes to the brewer. Yet the tax being considered by the legislature will only affect brewing companies.
2. Function. For the purposes of this legislation, breweries are not being treated like other businesses. This is a "sin tax" designed to reimburse the state for various ills--"alcohol-related health-care costs," "underage drinking," "alcoholism." Yet Oregon breweries' contribution to these ills is not distinguished from wine, liquor, or industrial beer, nor are the health benefits acknowledged. No doubt some alcoholics choose stouts and some underage drinkers tipple barleywines, but certainly not in proportion to liquor and cheap beer. Breweries aren't complaining that they have to pay the usual taxes. But being treated like a tobacco company and being compelled to pay for state troopers is another matter.
3. Incentive. Oregon's brewing industry is a huge success story. It brings money into the state, creates jobs, and employs Oregonians. Breweries are increasingly going green and they support local agriculture. They have transformed the corner bar from a smoky, windowless room into a family-friendly brewpub where drinking happens in moderation. Yet we are proposing to tax them merely for producing a product some people consider sinful. This is the kind of local industry we should be supporting, not penalizing. Breweries aren't asking for special favors, but they'd appreciate not being treated like shabby kin.

I'm still for health care, higher ed, and social services, but I am also for equity. Breweries already pay their fair share in local taxes. I just don't see how adding an additional burden on local business is an equitable way to pay for these worthy services.

Blue Dot and Woody Fred

This just in from Hair of the Dog maestro Alan Sprints:

This Saturday is my Earth Day sale at the Brewery from 10:00 till
4:00. I will have a new 12oz Bottling of Fred from the Wood and 22oz
bottles of Blue Dot.

Come early if you want the Wood, even though I am limiting it to one
case per person they will go fast. Hope to see you here, Alan.

Hair of the Dog
4509 SE 23 Avenue
Directions (if you haven't been to the brewery before, you'll need 'em).

Taxing Beer

The House Revenue Committee taxes up the issue of raising the beer tax tomorrow. There are currently five different versions of legislation in the offing; they fund different things and tax beer at a different rate. I've got a few thoughts about this, but let's get some facts out on the table first:

• The legislature is considering various versions of excise taxes--fees that are charged to the brewer, rather than the distributor or retailer.
  
• One version of the legislation (which has been to the legislature before) would raise the tax to $34.60, a $32-per-barrel hike over the current rate of $2.60. A barrel is 31 gallons, so the per-gallon increase would go from eight cents to $1.12.
  
• The national mean (average) for the beer tax is $7.75 per barrel, and the median (half pay more, half pay less) is $5.25.
  
• Some of the legislation is tied to the Consumer Price Index, which increased 31.8% between 1994 - 2005. However, over the same period, beer prices only increased 23%. Therefore, the tax grows in proportion to the cost of production over time.
• Some of the legislation would exempt all breweries who sell less than 125,000 barrels in Oregon. Currently, no brewery sells that much, but in less than a decade Deschutes, Widmer, and Full Sail could. At 125,000 barrels, a brewery's sales would account for just 4% of the beer sold in Oregon. But on the day a brewery hit the magic number, its tax would go from $845,000 to $4.325 million.
  

Democrats want to find a way to raise taxes on beer, which isn't exactly unreasonable. The state hasn't raised taxes since 1976. In today's dollars, that same tax would be $9.41. But there's a lack of cohesiveness in both the function of the tax (in one version it is a set-aside for state troopers, and in another for mental health and drug addiction services) and its design.

When our home-grown Oregon brewers whip up a barrel of beer, a lot of people make money on it. The brewers sell it to distributors who take a cut, and the distributors turn around and sell it to retailers, who sell it for four bucks a "pint" (more lucrative than it looks), getting their cut. Yet the tax being considered tomorrow will only affect the brewer. Legislators are doing their best to make sure it mainly affects out-of-state brewers like Bud. But it is worth asking the question: why do you need this tax, and why are you targeting breweries?

Minors --Now Allowed at the OBF!

This just in:

The Oregon Brewers Festival (OBF) is pleased to announce that, as in the past, minors under age 21 will be allowed all-hours access to the 20th annual Oregon Brewers Festival, provided they are accompanied by a parent. The Oregon Liquor Control Commission granted permission for minors/parents to attend after receiving a new OBF compliance plan.

"After thoroughly reviewing the Oregon Brewers Festival's amended proposal, we believe it meets our licensing and enforcement concerns regarding minor patronage at the 2007 festival," explained Rudy Williams, OLCC deputy director. "We appreciate the OBF's willingness to work with the OLCC to help satisfy the public safety interests of Oregonians."

"We are thrilled that the OLCC has made this decision," said Art Larrance, founder of the OBF. "The festival has a long-standing history of being a family-friendly event. We promote responsible drinking, and as a result, we have responsible attendees who come together to celebrate our local culture."

Power to the (little) people!

McMenamins Back in the Guild

A minor item of substantial note: the Oregon Brewers Guild announced that the McMenamins have finally renewed their membership--the first time since 1995. This may seem like nothing to most people, but it's a pretty big symbolic move and has an interesting twist on the beer tax debate (more on that later in the week).

The symbolic move is the acknowledgement by the McBrothers that they're part of an important local industry. Previously, they've maintained that they're centrally a chain of restaurants, not breweries. That has always been absurd on its face, all the more so because the McMenamins got their start as tavern owners and were pioneers of the industry. No one has to join the Oregon Brewers Guild, of course, but it's a credibility issue for both the Guild and the McMenamins. So good.

Now, the interesting twist. The distinction between brewer (brewpub-owner) and restauranteur is mostly a semantic one. From the customers' side, it's academic whether the beer was brewed on-site. But from a political point of view, it's the difference between being a beer producer (brewer) and retailer (restauranteur). The current debate about beer taxes has pitted these two constituencies against each other: under most systems, brewers pay the tax, which restaurant owners, as retailers, prefer. But as brewers, you'd like to see the tax be borne by distributors and retailers, or at least shared.

It's somewhat academic; because the McBrothers don't brew anywhere near enough to meet the threshold for the new tax. But, as members of the Oregon Restaurant Association and not the Brewers Guild, the McMenamins put their de facto weight against brewers. This is a symbolic--and welcome--reversal.

Yeah, I know no one cares, but there you have it.

Old Beervana Site

I just discovered that an archive of my old Beervana site is online. It's an archive version and lacks all the photos and gifs, but it's there. It dates to 2001 and so is not much of a resource for current beers and breweries, but it does have descriptions of some now-defunct places West Brothers, Wild Duck, and Caswell. Also a glossary of beer terms and styles.

I mention this in part because some pub in Salt Lake City claims to have trademarked the word Beervana, and I've worried they might try to sue me. Fair warning--I used it first (online, anyway).

Another logo:



[Updated: Found a coupla old images off the hard drive.]

Standing Stone Brewpub

Tim Akimoff has been horning in on my territory. He's producing brewery vids for "Will Blog for Beer" that exceed mine in production values and content. In other words, they're pretty good. That doesn't mean I'm not sending over the goons to break his kneecaps, but props where props are due. Since I don't make it down to Ashland often enough, here's his video tour of Standing Stone.

I wasn't quite as impressed as he was on my last visit in 2003:

If you’ve been to Ashland, you know that the bar for food is very high (easily competing with cities ten times its size). It’s not surprising, then, that the food’s great. It’s also on the cheaper side, which is important to know—Ashland’s short on cheap eats. Unfortunately, the beer’s not up to the same standard. We had an IPA, a nut brown, and a stout (might have been a porter). They were all pedestrian affairs, a bit too tannic, and a bit too phenolic (that’s the banana-y flavor that’s coveted in some German wheats, but not in English-style beers). Ah well, I guess it’s not the end of the world: Ashland’s got just about everything else.

But, maybe things have improved. Let me know if you've been down there recently. And Tim, a little more shake in the camerawork, what say? We're beer bloggers; we've got low standards to maintain. Bring it down a notch, and maybe I'll call off the goons.

Belgian Tasting - Today Only

Go.

Nine breweries; ten Belgian-style beers; one yeast: Wyeast 1762. There's gotta be a math joke in there somewhere... But what there might be, actually, is the beginning of a new tradition in Portland's tight-knit brewing community, as nine brewers make different beers each using the same yeast strain, which Oregon's own Wyeast Laboratories describes as " Belgian Abbey Yeast II. High gravity yeast with distinct warming character from ethanol production. Slightly fruity with dry finish, low ester profile. Flocculation - medium; apparent attenuation 73-77%. (65-75° F, 18-24° C)"

No, I don't know what all that means, either, but I have every confidence that the brewers from Amnesia, BJ's, McMenamins Concordia Brewhouse and Crystal Brewery, Hair of the Dog, Lucky Lab, The New Old Lompoc, Rock Bottom Brewery and Roots Organic Brewery have the situation well in hand and have made good, distinctive beers. Judge for yourself next Tuesday, April 10th when all ten beers will be pouring: 4-10 p.m. at Rock Bottom, 206 S.W. Morrison St. Cost is $4 for a full beer or $1 for a taster. 503-796-2739.

I have plans, so you must drink in my stead.

Henry Weinhard's Organic Amber

There appears to be an imposter on grocery shelves. In Oregon anyway, a hard line divides micro and macro, and "gourmet" beers like Michelob are kept in their place (with the Hamm's, where the belong). Starting about two weeks ago a sleek sixer bearing the name "Henry Weinhard's" started appearing on the micro section of the beer case. It migrated just a foot, but there it is, like a Sooner on land grab day, on the other side of the line. So, what gives? Did Henry's finally game the system? No: in this case, appearances are misleading. Henry's had made a real micro-quality beer, and it has earned its place among the good beer, a rather remarkable development in industrial brewing.

Before the review, some speculation on what Henry's is up to. Ambers have evolved to become the classic "crossover" beer--an inoffensive style that non-beer (or tin-can-beer) people can tolerate. MacTarnahan's has managed to eke out a marginal place here, but other challengers to the throne continue to pop up--F[l]at Tire, Mac and Jack's, Alaskan. (Full Sail's Amber, which was the first, is too strong, hoppy, and ale-y to fit in this category.) If Henry's was going to mount a charge on this market, they chose a beer that might possibly appeal to their current customers.

But clearly, Miller (current owner of the Weinhard brand) has a more ambitious goal. By crafting an organic ale--and advertising on OPB--Henry's is aiming for a share of the Whole Foods segment. It's a canny move. Ever since Weinhard found a home at the Full Sail plant, it's fallen back into the good graces of Oregonians. For over 30 years, it has had the reputation of being a higher-quality beer than national brands, so trying to move it up the quality ladder is smarter than scrambling for the Pabst market.

And the price point is fully micro--I paid $5.99 for my six-pack, and it was on sale. It's possible they'll keep it marginally cheaper than other micros, but 50 cents isn't going to cause someone to abandon Mirror Pond. Henry's is going to have to compete on taste. Which takes me to . . .

Tasting Notes
It pours out a warm copper-amber, which was the first surprise (I had Blue Boar "Ale"--which looked like every other macro-lager--in my memory). It had a viscosity that you'd expect in a micro ale; unfortunately, the head dissipated rather quickly. Aroma is mild--nutty malting and a fleeting floral essence. In flavor, it's akin to Fat Tire, with an emphasis on malt. It's a little flaccid in the middle, with a cereal-malt-like quality. This is standard for the style, though not thrilling. The hops are detectable, but just. They balance the malt, but don't offer much in the way of actual character. I suspect that in a blind taste test, it would beat Fat Tire and Mac and Jack's, but lose out to MacTarnahans, which has about 50% more bitterness and a lot more hop character.

In terms of commercial prospects, I think the horizon is clear. No bets, but this is a very interesting experiment. Amber- and Hefeweizen-dependent breweries don't have to panic just yet, but they're probably breaking a sweat. We'll see.

Stats
Malts: Pale, Crystal
Hops: Mt. Hood, Simcoe
Alcohol by volume: 5.3%
Original Gravity: NA
Bitterness Units: 21
Available: Year round, on your micro shelf at the grocery store

Rating
Good (for style).

First Sunny Friday of the Year

Yesterday was one of those gorgeous, sunny days in Spring that lifted the hearts of Puddletowners (a high of 78), and provoked a spate of weather "illnesses." The morning commute was very light and downtown was abanoned. People went to their favorite parks and pubs and had a fine day of hooky.

The shots below were taken at the very packed Lucky Lab last night (April 6), between about 6-7 pm on my cell phone.

The back porch was packed

The pints were pouring fast

When I took this photo, the beer line stood at 22 and snaked around the pub.

Contented

He's Got My Vote

"Life is too short for bad beer and to spend all your time raising money."

--Rep. Peter DeFazio, on whether he'll try to unseat Senator Gordon Smith.

News You Can Use

Belmont Station opened their promised cafe. Finally:

That's right, the [Belmont] Station BierCafe is now open; the coffee is on, the panini grill is hot, and the taps are flowing!

To start things out in a quiet (yet tasty) fashion we've tapped:

Double Mountain IRA
BJ's Whiskey Barrel Stout
Pelican Dorymans Dark
Gouden Carolus

The initial hours are Tue - Sat from 4-10 (maybe 11). Come on down and be one of the first to hang out in our smoke-free bar and sample from our selection of 700+ bottles, 4 rotating taps, and tasty food.

Belmont Station is located at 4500 SE Stark.

Not only that but John Foyston (who is posting at a furious pace) alerts us to yet another brewpub within staggering distance from my humble abode:

Publican Jim Parker and longtime brewer Lorren Lancaster (Star Brewing, Mad River, Anderson Valley and Deschutes) are opening a new brewpub called the Green Dragon Ale House & Bistro in the former Yamhill Brewing space at 938 S.E. Ninth Ave. in June, Parker says.

Quite a bit more if you want to read the full post, plus this interesting tidbit:

And Parker even has a way for you to be part of the enterprise, by joining the the Founders Club: loan him $2,500 for five years and you get your own barstool and a guaranteed place at the bar; and your first beer free and 10 percent off your bill on every visit. What you don't get is old-fashioned interest, but assiduous club members will surely manage to eke out their money's worth. Send him an email at pdxgreendragon@yahoo.com if you're interested. 

Hey, anyone got $2,500 they want to give a poor beer blogger? Tell you what, I've got a Fred #1 in the basement, and a first edition Old Knucklehead I'd sell you.

Just a thought.

Review - Old Lompoc Fifth Quadrant

3901-B North Williams
Portland, Oregon

Hours: variable, call first if you're going odd hours; open all days
Prices: 10 oz glass - $2, 14oz - $3.75, Pitchers: $12
Other info: Seasonal outdoor seating; kids allowed; No smoking
Beers: A range of English ales plus seasonals.

Back in 1998, the Old Lompoc was a very modest new brewpub which I gave low odds to succeed. Down at the seedy end of NW 23rd (when there was still a seedy end), it had a new brewery, but still had the ambiance of a working-class 50s tavern. Of course, I liked it. When it re-opened as the New Old Lompoc, under the management of Don Younger and Jerry Fechter, it was still modest, but growing. None other than Bud Clark pulled the first pint (somewhere in a box in the basement I have a picture), but I still didn't give it great odds to thrive. (I still liked it.)

But my, how the Lompoc has grown. Now a mini-chain, it has a Southeast and Northerly outpost. And the Fifth Quadrant, which opened last year on Williams Ave (in what must be known city-wide as "the new Pix Building)", is the most haute of all--I can't imagine it began in that offbeat little tavern. The name is a nod to North Portland, which is mostly beyond the pub, and perhaps a nod to the rising fortunes of that portion of the city. So I guess everything has changed.

The Fifth Quadrant (5Q) is housed in a new building in the popular nouveau industrial style, with high ceilings and exposed duct work, cement floors, and metal floor-to-ceiling windows. It is spacious and airy, but also quite loud. The roof extends off one end of the building to make for attractive outdoor seating, and the booths at the center of the restaurant have sliding dividers that expand to seat two tables (ten people?). It was packed with families, including kids, when we went, the sure sign of a thriving neighborhood pub.

Beer
When the Lompoc was just getting started, Fechter had a tendency toward excessive tannins (generally a problem with too much crystal malt). For years I wanted to like Lompoc beers as much as I liked the pub, but they were just too grainy. So it was with some prejudice that I approached my Condor Pale at the Fifth Quadrant. Maybe it's 5Q brewer Derek Clark (there's a brewery on-site), but this ain't your father's (okay, older brother's) New Old Lompoc. Two of the three beers I tried were exceptional--a helluva batting average for any brewpub.

• Condor Pale - Sweet, carmelly nose, a warm golden color. Both this beer and the Stout had noticeably fresh aromas--as if they had been kegged and tapped minutes earlier. This was a classic NW-style pale, but what really caught my attention was the silky, creamy mouthfeel. It was thicker than most pales, but not at all heavy or cloyingly sweet. The malt and hops were in wonderful harmony. It finished dry--even more surprising, given the rich mouthfeel. Fantastic.
  
• Sockeye Cream Stout - Jet black, dense nitro head that lasted to the end. Roast and chocolate aroma, and something of English yeast (which may have been contributed by the taster, who was getting carried away) came through in the nose. Much of the strengths of the pale were evident here--silky mouthfeel, and a nice balance between a very chocolaty-sweet first note and a subsequent drying dark malts (could be both roasted and black). Perhaps the best sweet stout I've tasted.
• Centennial IPA - Although this is probably a crowd-pleaser, to me it was the one dud in the batch. It's got the hallmarks loved in Beervana--cloudy golden, frothy head, and intense bitterness. But the bitterness wasn't pleasant; it tasted like the hops had been strained for all their alpha-acid might; it tasted stressed, like over-boiled coffee. If you're going to do strongly bitter beers, better to include hops at all stages of the boil so that the bitterness is complemented by hop flavor and aroma. This one wasn't--even the aroma was nearly absent. I assume the name comes from Centennial hops, among the most aromatic, so this is a special injustice. But what the hay--have the Condor, instead.

Food
Brewpubs have learned that a good menu is good business, and 5Q has one. They feature a nice array of starters (nice if you're just out for beers), hearty sandwiches, pasta, and a few (mostly meaty) entrees. But there's also a decent selection for vegetarians, too--somewhat rare for brewpubs. Sally tried the fish and chips (her fave) and I went for a chorizo penne dish. I hate to report that the fish was slightly over-cooked; otherwise, with halibut and crispy shoestrings, it was very nice. I'd try it again. The pasta was tasty but slightly understated--still, pretty good for a pub. Portland Food and Drink, whom you should trust more than me, calls it "some of the best pub food in Portland." I'm inclined to agree. (And of course, Pix Patisserie, purveyors of the best dessert in town, is just around the corner.) We had a poor waitress, but consulting other reviews, this appears to be anomalous.

All in all, a great place. I give it a strong recommendation.

Foyston Joins the Blogosphere

John Foyston, who has been writing about beer for the Oregon for over a decade and from whom I steal most of my news updates, is now hosting a blog of his own at OregonLive. I don't do a lot to promote our state's biggest paper, but John's not only a good writer, but a good guy. We should keep one eye on his blog for late-breaking news. Looks like me stealin' days are done.

Welcome, John!

Full Sail LTD Bottling 02

A brief review of the newest Full Sail LTD, which is on shelves now. LTD, the overly cute series ("Livin' the Dream," dude) Full Sail debuted in January, is the brewery's bid to break into the nontraditional lager market. The first version was respectable and caused me some hope. So now to bottling #02, which Full Sail describes, unhelpfully, as

A light-bodied nonetheless hella good limited edition lager courtesy of the mad skills of the Full Sail crew. Crisp. Golden. Ultra drinkable. Totally LTD.

Diction theirs. Emphasis mine (reasons below).

Tasting Notes
It pours out like an unassuming lager--a little deeper golden than the average pilsner, topped by a fizzy, weak head. My dad would recognize it as "beer." But all is not Busch Lite about it, as you discover with a first sniff. Like the 01 bottling, this one is robust at 6.4% (strangely, the exact same alcohol content--a theme?), and I can detect in it malt-liquory nose. The palate, too, has a malt liquor quality--it's slick and alcoholic on the tongue, but has a slightly harsh alcohol kick. It's also very sweet, featuring quite mild, floral hopping that isn't adequate to the task of adding balance.

But perhaps the inspiration isn't the golden-hued forty (we called 'em "torpedoes" in the eighties), but a more regal beer. In Germany, helles (pr. "hell-ehs") means "clear" or "light." It is a style its own--a bland, mild lager not too distant from Bud. But it can also be used to modify other styles, as in helles bock. When I picked up the label and saw "hella" in the description, that's what I immediately thought of. If it's a wink to the beer geeks among us, a nice touch.

But, helles bock or no, I'm not a fan. To me, it's a little cloying and heavy. I'd like some more complexity of malt if this were going to be a bock (it tastes likes it has cereal malts--corn or rice) or some hops to offset the malt. It mainly reminds me of malt liquor, a style to which I am perhaps prejudiced. This beer doesn't thrill. Most IPA-lovin' denizens of Beervana are going to be disappointed. Further evidence, perhaps, that the LTD line was not made for them.

Not stats available yet; I'll update if they become available.

Your Favorite Portland-area Brewpubs?

I am slowly working my way through my "best of Beervana" posts, and next up is Portland brewpubs--arguably the most important post of the series. While Oregon is generally considered beer paradise, Portland is its capital, and when people come to town, they want world-class beer. Before I get too far into the post, though, I thought I'd do a reader poll--which are your faves?

The only way I can manage a "best" list is to break it down by category. Below are the brewpubs I was seriously considering in each category. Don't feel constrained by either the list or the categories, but do weigh in--which are the best?

Best Beer

• Roots
• Laurelwood
• BJ's Jantzen Beach (seriously--Dan Pederson's a wizard)
• New Old Lompoc
• Rogue Flanders Street
  

Ambiance

• Amnesia
  
• Lucky Lab
• Lompoc Fifth Quadrant
• Mash Tun
  

Food

• Laurelwood
• Widmer Gasthaus
• BridgePort
• Full Sail Pilsner Room
  

Keep in mind, I'll also do reviews of Portland pubs and Oregon brewpubs, so we'll catch some places that won't appear here.

Mmmmmm .... Marmite!

Pop quiz. Marmite is:

1. A baby marmot.
2. A black, chalky byproduct of iron ore produced in smelting.
3. A delicious treat made of spent beer yeast and spread on toast.

Well, this being Beervana, the answer isn't much in doubt, but admit it--you didn't actually know, did you?

Marmite, according to the promotional website, is just irresistably tasty. Behold:

The basic production method has changed little since Marmite was first invented. Basically, the used brewer's yeast is broken down to release soluble amino acids and proteins. This soluble material is then concentrated and filtered a few times before going through a unique (and top secret) process for flavour development.

At the end of all this, we end up with yeast extract paste - nearly Marmite but not quite. The finishing touches make all the difference. We add an extra blend of vitamins, vegetable and spice extracts to create the taste your mouth adores!

I learned of this product while meandering through the byways of the blogosphere and discovered that Guinness put out a limited edition batch of their own marmite earlier this year--for St. Patrick's, naturally. Curious, I delved more deeply into marmitology. Turns out it is a 100-year-old product (with earlier, pre-commercial versions dating back 400 years) with a status something like Spam in America. Mostly it's gross, but for the avid few who promote marmite, that, apparently, is it's charm.

Said one site: "Usually, it's spread thinly on toast, and for those who like it, it has a salty, almost meaty flavor. For those who don't, the flavor is more akin to that of earwax." Mmmm, thin meat spread, tasty.

It is vegan, however, which raises the question--is there a market in Beervana? Perhaps, in conjunction with Roots Organic, say, a Hawthorne store could find a market. I know I'm dying to try it.

Tell Me What You Know

A couple months ago, I got an email from a breweriana collecter in Florida who had come across a Schludwiller label. As Oregonians know, Schludwiller was the fictional California brewery mocked in 70s-era Henry Weinhard ads.

This raises a few questions. Among the most obvious: why would a fictional brewery have beer labels? The guy who queried me about this (Daniel) also wondered: "Why was a label made up for this beer? Did they use them on bottles in a commercial? And why was the name Schudwiller chosen?" All worthy questions.

Anyone have any clue? If you click on the label to the right, you'll see a larger version of it. I don't have any great reward to offer--just the satisfaction of visiting upon the world (and Daniel) your insight to this lost trivia.

The label is pretty amusing:

• "Plywood aged for a real long time"
• "Selected as one of America's beers at the 1967 World Series"
• "A name in brewing for nearly one-half generation"
  

There's also a motto in Latin, "Quod nesciunt sibi damno non erit," which Daniel translated to (roughly) "Condemn not they who are ignorant," which is a high level of mockery by any standard.

So, what do you know about this? Reply in comments or via email. Any info will do; I think Daniel would even be happy if we pointed him in the right direction.

Collaborative Releases of Note

The Collaborator Project is announcing its current release of "Continuum Brown Ale." (Collaborator, you'll recall from my Snow Plow review, is a partnership between the Brew Crew, a Portland homebrew club, and Widmer.) The beer will debut tonight at the Brooklyn Park Pub (3400 SE Milwaukie Ave.). The homebrewer who created the recipe is named Scott Sanders, and he'll join Rob Widmer at the pub from 6-9pm. I believe the style is an English brown ale.

I probably won't get into the habit of mentioning press releases I receive, but this came in the inbox today, and it's just intriguing enough to pass along (emphasis mine):

The Pelican Pub & Brewery (Pacific City, OR) and Midnight Sun Brewing (Anchorage, AK) are inviting beer fans to join them in their Conspiracy:

Conspiracy is a collaboration brew between Midnight Sun Brewing and Pelican Pub & Brewery. During a trip to Alaska for the Great Alaskan Beer & Barley Wine Fest, Ben Love of Pelican conspired with Gabe Fletcher and Ben Johnson of Midnight Sun to brew a Belgian-Style Black Beer. Conspiracy features a rich, spicy aroma with hints of dark fruit, raisin, roast and caramel. A toasted and slightly roasty flavor lead into caramel and a super smooth finish. Debittered black malt was used to get the jet-black color and tan head without adding significant roast flavor. The brewers also added Belgian candi sugar and Mexican Piloncillo sugar (a maple-sugar-like brown sugar) to increase fermentability and depth of flavor. Conspiracy comes in at 8.5 percent ABV and 25 IBUs.

A release party is scheduled for Thursday, April 5 at 7 p.m. at the Horse Brass Pub, 4534 SE Belmont St . Gabe Fletcher (Head brewer at Midnight Sun) is making the trip to Portland for the release party and is also bringing along kegs of Midnight Sun's Envy Imperial Pils (9% ABV), Gluttony Triple IPA (11%) and FH Double IPA (9%). This will be a one-time-only chance to try these beers on draft outside of Alaska . All the beers will be tapped at 7pm. Conspiracy and Envy will be available at $3.50/glass & FH will cost $5/pint.

There will also be a bottle release event on Friday, April 6 from 5-7 p.m. in the new café at Belmont Station. Gabe Fletcher & Ben Love will be there to pour and talk about Conspiracy. Guests will be able to purchase a 4oz taster or a bottle to enjoy there or take home.

I'll mention it again as the events approach. Sounds interesting, though.

News From Hood River

Two bits of related news blew down the Gorge this weekend. First, the debut of Double Mountain Brewery, which opened its doors for the first time this weekend. For the moment, they're in transitional start-up mode, and are only open Thursday and Friday evenings and on the weekend (noon to close). I saw one early review, which gave high marks for the pub ("great-looking") and beer ("layered complexity"). Maybe someone else will weigh in with an early report.

They have two beers on tap, which owner Charlie Devereux describes promisingly as:

The first is a brown ale featuring Gambrinus organic pils malt and specialties from Simpson and Crisp. The second effort, codenamed "India Red Ale" (aka "The I.R.A.") combines a ruby red color with a generous charge of whole flower Simcoe and Brewers' Gold in the hopback. Both ales were fermented with a versatile ale strain from Belgium supplied by our friends up the valley at Wyeast Labs, and will be served unfiltered.

Basically we're looking to stretch the norm a bit and make some beers that true craft beer fanatics, i.e. you guys, will hopefully find interesting and unique. Hope you enjoy our 'work-in-progress'.

You can taste their beers at the Oaks Bottom Public House tomorrow (Wednesday)--when the very first kegs arrive in Portland.

Double Mountain Brewery and Taproom
8 Fourth Street
Hood River, Oregon

Oaks Bottom Public House
1621 S.E. Bybee Blvd
Portland, Oregon

Jamie Emmerson, the brewmaster at Full Sail (a block and a half from Double Mountain) also confirms that the remodel on the brewery's pub is running behind schedule. In the true spirit of the beer fraternity, he writes:

"So, instead of pushing too hard, and not wanting to steal Double Mountain ’s opening thunder (Charlie and Matt used to work for me, and I wish them all the best), we’re going to target a later opening date."

So don't zip up there expecting to do a double shot of the sister breweries. But do zip up there, and report back--

Beannachtai Na Féile Pádraig*

I had hoped to do a post on the troika of famous Irish stouts--Guinness, Murphy's, and Beamish, but I couldn't find the Beamish (which is the best of the three). Well, nevermind. May your day be free of blarney and your pint glass full of stout.

May the leprechauns be near you,
To spread luck along your way.
And may all the Irish angels,
Smile upon you St. Patrick's Day.
(anon.)

___________
Happy St. Patrick's Day

Your Favorite McPubs

Based on the response to the post below, there's a lot of love for the McMenamins out there. Although I totally stand behind my picks of the "best" (especially for firist-timers to Portland), I recognize that this is an inexact science. Which are your faves and which would you recommend to visitors to the city?

Here's a list of some of the notables:

Barley Mill Pub
Blue Moon Tavern & Grill
Bagdad
Chapel Pub
Cornelius Pass Roadhouse
Edgefield
Fulton Pub & Brewery
Grand Lodge
Hotel Oregon
Kennedy School
McMenamins on the Columbia
The Old St. Francis Hotel
Ringlers Annex
Roseburg Station Pub & Brewery
St. Johns Theater & Pub
McMenamins Tavern & Pool
The Rams Head
White Eagle Saloon

And any love for the non-Portland outposts?
Dad Watsons (Seattle)
High Street Brewery & Café (Eugene)
North Bank (Eugene)
Six Arms (Seattle)
Thompson Brewery (Salem)

Best McMenamins Pubs

Seattle has Starbucks, Detroit has General Motors, and Portland has the McMenamins, a constellation of the funkiest places to drink beer in the world. Brothers Mike and Brian McMenamin began building the "kingdom" in 1974 with the purchase of the Produce Row Cafe in the industrial (and now hipster) Southeast. It wasn't exactly a false start, but after mixed success there, they tried again in '83 and bought a pub on 17th and Hawthorne they dubbed the Barley Mill Pub (named for a mill rescued from Cartwright, Oregon's first micro), and their luck changed.

In the following year, they and other brewing pioneers worked to pass a law to allow companies to brew and sell beer on the same property, laying the legal groundwork for the brewpub concept. No altruists, the McBrothers immediately opened the Hillsdale Pub, converting part of the building into a brewery and establishing the first Oregon brewpub in 1984. (The first batches were reportedly made from malt extracts and were of . . . varied consistency. But with help from brewers like John Harris, who cut his teeth at McMenamins, the beer improved quickly.)

In the intervening years, the McMenamins have become innovators many times over. They invented the concept of the theater pub when they opened the Mission Theater in 1987--a model that has spread not only throughout the city, but across the country. In 1990, they opened Edgefield, the first of their destination hotels; a 1911 poor house, it was converted into a European-style hotel, fully restored in the emerging McMenamin style--lots of funky artwork painted directly on the walls, antique fittings, and strange light fixtures. A cross between Dr. Seuss and Alice in Wonderland.

The McMenamins greatest innovation--and their greatest legacy--is in converting historic old buildings that would otherwise languish or get destroyed. The brothers have a knack for finding a property that no one can make use of--elementary schools, flophouses, train depots--and turning them into irresistable destinations. The old buildings all receive the McMenamins' artistic touches, but they are all fully restored to historic standards. What results is a chain with 55 unique links (at last count).

No visit to Portland is complete without a stop for a burger and beer, but since no one can visit every McPub, here are a half-dozen of the best.

Brief Orientation
After a decade where they were mostly run independently, the McMenamins now have a mostly standardized menu. Food tends to follow the ambiance of the pub/restaurant in question: downscale places may offer mostly burgers and sandwiches, while upscale outposts will offer lusher options (seared Ahi, steak, smoked duck, grilled sturgeon as some examples). Beers have also become standardized. At every pub you'll find:

• Hammerhead - the McMenamin's most popular; it's a sharply hoppy ale that isn't in perfect balance (Rating: average);
• Crystal - a beer they initially brewed to appeal to "regular-beer" drinkers, it's fine but lacks distinction (average);
  
• Ruby - a respectable, light ale flavored with raspberries (good);
• IPA - it may be that these vary somewhat location to location, but they're usually better than the Hammerhead (good);
• Black Rabbit Porter - very nice interpretation of a brown porter (excellent);
• Terminator Stout - the most varied depending on the brewer, but generally the best regular beer available and the McMenamin's only truly fine beer (excellent);
• Nebraska Bitter - a wonderful summer pale ale, with lots of hop flavor without heavy bitterness (excellent).

There are also rotating taps that include some special regular seasonals (Irish Stout is a standout) and brews brewed by the local brewer that are unique and probably on tap one time only. (These are where the regular beers come from--they gained popularity and became regulars.) Always ask what they have and if you're interested, ask for a taster. They're happy to indulge you.

Now, without further ado, here are my picks for the best of the best.


Cellar Pub/Ringlers Annex - 1223 SW Stark
Even from the street, this looks like a cool place. A sliver of a building at the toe of Stark and Burnside, it was, when constructed in 1917, the smallest structure on the West Coast. It still has all its period detail and looks like it was flown in from Rotterdam. But the real joy awaits inside.

The main floor houses an espresso bar, and you think you may have wandered into the wrong place. (In my experience, it's usually unattended.) You can then head upstairs if you want to watch the buzz of Burnside (unbothered by waitstaff), or downstairs, where you're transported via an interdimensional fold into a dark, cozy niche a million miles from the world. It's essentially a basement, but it has the charm of a speakeasy--you really feel as if you've disappeared from the real world and vanished into a past epoch. There aren't too many cozy, mellow removes in downtown, which makes the Cellar all the more appealing. If there's a disadvantage, it's that smoking is allowed. (On the other hand, what's a speakeasy without cigarettes?)

Cornelius Pass Roadhouse - 4045 NW Cornelius Pass Road
Most of the McPubs in the 'burbs are pretty sterile affairs. Some actually inhabit--gasp!--strip malls. But Cornelius Pass is one of the more historic sites in Oregon, and even has a long history with the brewing industry. The background is worth repeating, but the real reason Cornelius Pass makes the list is because it's just a very cool place.

Brief history: The Imbrie family bought the property in 1850, and began construction of buildings that still stand today--the granary (1850s), and the centerpiece Italian-influenced country home (1866). During the 1930s, Frank Imbrie began grain production, selling his barley to the famous (and now sadly defunct) Weinhard Brewery. The McMenamins saved the property from developers in the '80s, and in 2001, opened the signature Imbrie Hall, which was designed to look like a historic building and crafted from recovered materials. Of special note, the brothers managed to salvage some rafters from the Weinhard brewery, which closed during construction of Imbrie--bringing the relationship full circle.

Cornelius Pass has many of the touches of the McMenamins' larger, destination hotels--wonderful landscaping punctuated by impressive architecture, hidey-holes, and fascinating little touches (a large photo gallery is here). In addition to the farmhouse and Imbrie Hall, there's the tiny little bar known as the Little White Shed--a characteristic McMenamins touch. It's a great place to hang out and wind down, especially in the summer, when you can sit outside and enjoy the grounds. There's even live music in the octagonal barn.

Mission Theater - 1624 NW Glisan
I don't know that the McMenamins actually invented the idea of a theater pub, but they introduced it to Oregon in 1987 when they opened the Mission. (They probably invented it.) So prevalent is the concept now (the McMenamins have four) that distinguishing the Mission may seem passe. But for a couple of reasons, it still sets the standard.

Most of the theater pubs in town emphasize the theater, but the Mission really feels like a pub. It's the only place that features a full menu, for example. But also, it has a pubby quality that encourages a raucous crowd. I specifically wait for some movies to appear at the Mission, knowing that the crowd will join in and enhance the experience (recent example: Borat). Second, they not only show movies, but special broadcasts like sports games (last year's Oregon State's College World Series run) and the Oscars. Forget sports bars--when you join a few hundred fans in a room with a movie-screen sized TV, it is amazing. We took my brother-in-law to see a Ducks football game last fall. As a diehard Bostonian and sports freak, he's not easy to impress, but eyes wide, he sat down and marveled, "This is tremendous!" Yes it is.

(I suppose I should also mention that the Mission, like most of the McPlaces, is an exquisite old facility--an 1890 church established by the Swedish Evangelical Mission. Also, from a purely sentimental standpoint, I had to include the Mission. When I was a starving college student in the late 80s, the Mission didn't even charge for movies, figuring that they'd make it up on beer and food. Deadbeats like me ultimately forced them to raise the price to a buck, and later three, but it still remains one of the nice cheap choices in the city.)

St. Johns Pub and Theater - 8203 N. Ivanhoe
The building that now houses the St Johns Pub has been through several incarnations and goes back to one of the most historic times in Portland history. We go back 102 years to 1905 when the City of Roses was vying to be the signature city of the Northwest (it was beating out Seattle at the time). As was the fad of the time, it staged a world fair--the Lewis and Clark Exposition, to celebrate the explorers' 100th anniversary. The building that became the St Johns Pub was originally the National Cash Register Company building. Almost all of the exhibits were destroyed after the Exposition, but this building managed to survive. It has been home to churches and the American Legion.

Old buildings are not, by dint of history, cool. Besides its amazing history, the SJP is a wonderful building. The pub proper has two levels, a downstairs, outfitted with dozens of Suessian lamps, feels like a slightly off English Pub, and the upstairs has a cozier, rumpus-room feel. The theater, which was formerly a live-music venue, features a stunning dome with a distinct ecclesiastical vibe--it's not surprising that it was formerly co-opted by churches.

It's also one of the few dual-duty pubs in terms of weather. I find it among the coziest spaces in winter, and in the summer, there's a lovely shaded garden sprinkled with fairly private picnic tables. It's cool and pleasant on a hot day. It's a bit out of the way for most people, but worth a visit.

White Eagle Saloon - 836 N. Russell St.
Unlike most of the McMenamin properties, the building housing the White Eagle has always been a bar. Located in a roughneck neighborhood on the edge of the Swan Island shipyards, it has a . . . colorful history. From rumors of tunnels under the bar where drunks were shanghai'ed to murdered prostitutes to prohibition moonshine--the White Eagle is the object of many legends. Some may be true.

In any case, it has the straightforward feel of an old American tavern--those smoky corner spots that predated light-filled brewpubs. It is long and skinny and close-feeling; the kind of place you can walk into and survey for familiar faces. These older charms translate well to modern tastes, from the exposed brick to the impressive bar. The McMenamins have a sixth sense about the trends of the city, too--they bought the White Eagle at just the moment that the sleeply little working-class neighborhood turned industrial hip in the late 90s. It's still a cool part of town and mostly off the beaten path.

As the McMenamins never do things simply, it has some add-ons, including a small stage for regular live music, outdoor seating, and a few hotel rooms upstairs. I have yet to speak to anyone who's actually stayed there--sleeping above a bar isn't everyone's cup of tea--but you can't argue with the prices, which range from $40-$60.

Kennedy School - 5736 NE 33rd Ave
There are a few places I always take visitors to Portland--the Rose Garden, Powell's, and the Kennedy School. If they're into beer, I take 'em to a brewpub or two instead, but for a purely Portland experience, you can't do much better than the Kennedy School. A transformed 1915 elementary school in Northeast Portland, it was an albatross for over 20 years between 1975 and 1997. No one knew what to do with it.

The McBrothers did. They adopted the model pioneered at the Edgefield and converted the classrooms into hotel rooms, turned the gym into a movie theater, scattered pubs and restaurants throughout. They even converted a few of the rooms into conference and ballroom space. On most weekends, you'll see a wedding in the second gym. I attended a conference and watched a political campaign get launched there. In fact, when they opened, they offered the space free to local groups.

But the real attraction is the harmony of space and art. It still retains its school-y feel, and the McMenamins enhance it with artwork celebrating the staff and students who walked the halls. It includes paintings, mosaics, and sculpture--all with a whimsy suiting both a pub and a school. One tiny nook has been converted into the "Detention Pub," and captures the illicit feel you find in all schools. It's one of the few smoking areas, is for adults only, and has a nice liquor selection. Part teachers' lounge, part behind-the-bleachers hideout.

The Kennedy School communicates, more clearly than anyplace in the city, what Portland is all about--innovation, relation, art, and community.

_______________
PHOTO CREDITS: Strawberry [Mission], Queenie Carly [Kennedy School], Oregon State University [Mike and Brian McMenamin], all others from the McMenamins.

Best of Beervana - Next Installment

Tomorrow morning I'll post my latest installment in my visitor's guide (aka Best of Beervana). The post will highlight the McMenamins, a phenomenon that, for most Oregonians, is so common we almost fail to notice it. In fact, we owe an enormous debt to the McBrothers not only for saving dozens of historic buildings (and turning them into something way cooler than museums), but for laying the groundwork for beer culture here. Would Portland/Oregon be Beervana without the McMenamins? Maybe not.

Anyway, it's familiar terrain for regular readers, but I hope newbies enjoy.

Review - Clinton Street Brewing

2520 SE Clinton St.
Portland, Oregon

Hours: apparently random.
Pints: $4.00 (16 oz), $2.50 (10 oz)

Beers: Two rotating brewery beers, a wide selection of micros on tap and in the bottle.

Let's start with the positives first. Over the weekend, I enjoyed a tasty porter at the ultra-wee, DIY Clinton Street Theater, brewed up by the folks at the adjacent Clinton Street Brewery. It was smooth and creamy, with nary an off flavor (common in DIY breweries), though perhaps a touch too much black malt. I'd rate it in the good to excellent continuum. And, good beer equals good brewery, yeah?

That generally fool-proof equation ran aground on the shoals of incredibly poor service at the Clinton Street. Our experience started when we arrived at a little after five-thirty on a Saturday, figuring we'd catch a beer and maybe some food before the 7 pm showing of Children of Men. It was closed, though we noticed that a guy was trying--and failing--to unlock the front door. We decided to take a stroll around the neighborhood and see if he'd gotten things fired up, but at ten to six, no luck (we was still standing in front of the place, looking forlorn). We departed for food elsewhere.

When we returned at 6:35, the pub was open and there were about a dozen people in line. Sally went in to grab a seat and I went to grab a couple beers. They had one guy manning the taps and between the time it took him to go into the "kitchen" and microwave pizzas and verrrrrry sllllloooowwwly pull pints, it was literally twenty minutes before I got my beer. Singular. It turns out they can only serve one beer per ID-bearing person, by decree of the OLCC. (This is probably because of the hinky set-up, where the pub and theater are not one--so you don't get carded walking into the establishment, as you do at the Mission. But of course, you lose a decent seat if everyone in your party wants a beer. Pick your poison.) By the time I was headed into the theater, there were thirty people in a line that snaked through the pub--god knows when they got their beer.

The theater is as it has always been, a dingy and decaying, unheated space with a crappy projector and poor audio. I lived at 19th and Clinton in the late 80s, and although the neighborhood has changed remarkably, there's the theater, as decrepit as always.

So the beer's fine. If you want to endure the experience of actually getting a pint, you'll probably enjoy it. But in a town like Portland, where good beer and theater-pubs are a dime a dozen, you don't have to endure an experience like this to get a good beer. The beer's not that good.

Interstice

In between the great activity of the winter beer season and the fest season is . . . now. Nothing much going on, which is why posting has been low around here. I'll have a Best of Beervana up soon on the McMenamins. But beyond that, it may be a little slow.

Caldera at Jake's

It looks like Jake's may be making their brewing dinners a monthly thing. Hair of the Dog sells itself, but the April installment should be even more interesting to Portlanders. It features Ashland's Caldera Brewing, easily one of the most under-rated breweries in all of Beervana and one of the least-accessible in the Rose City. I have managed, through brew fests and travel, to try most of their beers, and it's hard to find a brewery with a more consistantly good lineup this side of Bend. So, the particulars:

Brewmaster Dinner with Caldera Brewing
Jake's Famous Crawfish
Sunday, April 15, 6:30 pm
401 SW 12th Ave
(503) 226-1419
$39.95, includes gratuity

If I can rustle up forty bucks, I plan to go. And hey, it's the Ides of April--either your taxes are in, or you're on the lam from the law; either way, drinking good beer is a fine place to be.

Full Sail Slipknot

At four ounces last night, my review of Full Sail's Slipknot (a Brewmaster Reserve Seasonal) was going to read something like this:

"It has the classic IPA character--a cloudy golden brew bubbling with citrusy hop aroma, but ultimately a beer like so many others. It's very tasty, but somehow hard to distinguish from the 37 other IPAs I had this year."

But by eight ounces (I'm working in approximations here), it had warmed a little, opened up, and revealed a few of its hidden secrets. I ended up with an entirely different impression.

To back up a bit, Slipknot is an "imperial IPA," a new designation that is meant to indicate strength and heft and generally excite beer drinkers. I think it muddies the water, especially when you're already talking about a big style of beer. Imperial stouts are more than twice as strong as Irish stouts--here "imperial" communicates something. But with Slipknot, we have a relatively hoppy (though not super hoppy) 7.8% beer. Back in the day (1997), we'd have called it an IPA. Let's dispense with the profligate "imperializing" of everything, shall we?

Okay, back to Slipknot. The aroma, to add to the description above, springs out of the glass. Citrus is the central aroma, but has a delicate blossom quality, too--it's a surprisingly fresh-smelling beer. As I mentioned, it starts indistinctly--tasty, but not something you think you could pull out of a line-up. As it warmed, though, the hop notes deepened and I picked up strong black pepper notes and a kind of resinous "cattiness" (which in this case was a good thing). There are plenty of residual sugars, which bouy the beer as you go along--the bitterness never threatens to overwhelm the palate. A winner.

Rating: Good (first few ounces) then excellent.

Stouts are Tasty

I have been remiss in touring beer blogs lately, for otherwise I would have known about this "beer blogging Friday" business (which beats Friday Cat Blogging by about 47 miles). I suspect I will not join this effort, for I am neither very good at timelines nor interested in group efforts. Today beer bloggers are supposed to be touching on the subject "Not your father's Irish stout," and from that title you can see from whence comes my reluctance. (On the other hand, I actually was in strange synchronicity with the effort when I posted, two days early, on Roots' imperial stout).

Therefore, a haiku instead, with an effort to at least nod in the direction of the Friday beer bloggers. I calls 'er "Stout."

Irony: black, cold,
wet Oregon winters warmed
by pints of liquid black

Sláinte!

Roots Winter Beers

I poked my head into Roots last night, where they were having a special on five--count 'em five--huge winter beers: Festivus, Imperial Stout, Epic Ale, a tripel, and a Wee Heavy. I decided to skip the entire flight (I needed to work today), but did check in on this year's Epic as well as the Imperial Stout. Quickie reax:

Epic Ale
To really reach its potential, this beer should probably never be served greener than a year old--which for a brewery is financially unviable. (You can, of course, by an $85 jeraboam, but at 3.3 liters, it presents its own problems.) Anyway, here are my notes: looks like viscous Coca Cola in its little serving goblet. Lacks much aroma--just a thick, barleywine malt faintness. It is rich with dark fruit and candied orange flavor, followed up by a sharp hop bitterness that keeps the beer from cloying. In a year, probably amazing; from the tap, an interesting, very intense ride.
Rating: Good.

Imperial Stout (nitro)
Exquisite. Ultra creamy and misleadingly delicate. A friend described it as an Irish type stout, and I thought he was just being dim. But it's true--the density and alcohol are lost in a froth of chocolatey creaminess. It does finish dry, and is more akin to a dry Irish than sweet stout, but bears no resemblance to an imperial. Never mind, it's amazing.
Rating: Good.

(Incidentally, I also had two mouthfuls of Festivus, which struck me as being a little out of balance and underwhelming. This isn't a reliable review, but you might try the tripel or Scottish first. After the stout, natch.)